Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to ensure that.
Remove the lower dashboard trim panel below the steering column.
Remove shift indicator cable clip (if used) and 2 nuts that hold steering column in place.
Fold it down so steering wheel lays on the seat.
Unplug electrical connector from switch.
Remove 2 nuts/bolts that attach switch to top of steering column.
Remove switch from operating rod, and install the new one.
Typically, they come with a locating pin in them that gets removed after you snug it down (with the lock cylinder in the prescribed position for switch installation).
(HOPEFULLY there's a sheet packed with the switch that details this "timing" procedure, or it'll have to be looked up in a shop manual.)
Plug in the connector, put the column and trim in place and you're done.
Shouldn't take more than a half-hour to 45 minutes for someone who hasn't done it before.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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