Posted by gab on March 22, 2014 at 08:42:35 from (50.103.17.204):
In Reply to: 2004 silverado posted by Craig45 on March 22, 2014 at 05:48:02:
There's a tool to hold the flange while you remove the nut and a tool to remove the flange and if you tighten the nut too tight you crush the sleeve and you're screwed. The way I've done them is tie the frt of the shaft up, center punch in a line the end of the pinion, the nut and the flange to eliminate some guess work. I hold the flange with a glove or handful of rags and knock the nut off with a impact, use a long punch in my air chisel and drive the flange off, get the seal out carefully, don't gouge the housing. There's a seal driver but it can be installed carefully with a hammer. Clean splines on pinion and flange and I use Teflon sealer inside flange cause sometimes they leak there. line up the mark on pinion and flange and gently tap flange on enough to get the washer and nut started. Gently tighten nut with impact until the punch marks line up. Before the nut comes off to start with you should turn the pinion a little back and forth to get a feel for what your end result should feel like. About a half hour job on a hoist, I wouldn't want to do it on my back anymore.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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