If you were close to me here in NC I would gladly rebuild it for you. Typically damage to the rod results in a really slow 'weep' of fluid that often keeps the rod wet, but doesn't actually 'leak' like bad seals do. More than likely the problem with yours is that the seals are worn out and/or old and rotted out. I've repacked several cylinders in the past couple of months and the seals in all of them have been so old they were 'rotten' and falling apart. I did one that was so bad the seal was basically missing other than a few small pieces. Needless to say it had a serious leak.
Beyond that, it's not that hard to repack one, if you've got the proper tools to remove the head of the cylinder, and something to provide enough torque to get the nut/bolt that holds the piston to the rod. Without those things your best bet is to take it to your local hydraulic shop and let them redo it for you. Price wise I've found that in most cases the cost of a factory seal kit isn't all that much more than the cost of the individual pieces. The benefit of the few extra dollars is that you know you've got all the correct parts before you start so there's not waiting on something odd, that had to be ordered, once you get it torn down.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
... [Read Article]
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