You can't stop the rust but you can bring it down to so slow your grand kids can inherit the truck. Here are two examples: First, the bottoms of the doors will rust out pretty quickly if all you do is wash. But, if you lift the weather strip at the bottom, you will see rust where the outer skin laps over the inner. There is sealant there but it lasts only about four years. Keep checking it and when you see it rusting take a screwdriver and drag it along the top of the overlap to clean off the rust and lifted paint. Then spray WD-40, give it a day to soak in good between the inner and outer skin, then spray it with aerosol chain lube. The lube goes on very thin and penetrates then sets up stiff so that it will last for months against water and salt. The second is if your body is not rusted out yet, look up from underneath ahead of the wheel well, looking up and to the rear. You will see where the inner fender and the outer skin come together. You can spray WD- 40 up in there very easily so that it runs down between the metal panels and the block of foam rubber that is there to dampen vibration. Again, allow it to penetrate and displace moisture then follow up with the aerosol chain lube. 2-3 applications a year depending on climate and you will have the rust under control.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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