Re: Re: Re: Advice on first tractor

Subject: Re: Re: Re: Re: Advice on first tractor

Comments:
: : : : : : : I am looking for advice as to what kind of : : : : tractor to buy. I need a strong rotary cutter : : : : for clearing up to 3" thick brush. I want the : : : : capability of a front loader and a bucket. I am : : : : new to the whole tractor arena, so I want to know : : : : what size/make tractor will do what I need. I : : : : have not decided old or new. There is a romance : : : : to old tractors (I know you already know that), : : : : but I don't need another project. ('46 Buick, : : : : '53 Chevy pickup, '69 Camaro, ... already on the : : : : project list.) I have no problem with a little : : : : TLC, but I need a tractor now. Suggestions? : : : : Thanks! : : : Matt: : : : You're on the right track...old tractors are neat, but there's a reason new ones sell...things like full hydraulics, live pto, power steering, operator comfort, etc. I'd look at a used modern tractor, say no more than 10 years old. If you're going to be running a big bush hog, 30-40 hp might be a good idea. I'm running a 5' bush hog with a 20 horse John Deere diesel, and I can cut 3"-4" stuff, but it's hard on the gear. General recommendations: Diesel is the only way to go, don't even consider gas engines. Four wheel drive or front wheel assist is a must where I am (Maine) but may not be if your area is basically flat and mostly dry. Power steering is a blessing. A bucket loader (aka front end loader) is about the most generally useful attachment money can buy. Gear drive with a multi-speed rear end is very versatile. Hydro drive has it's points, but adds quite a bit of expense to the tractor. As far as brands, I'm a big John Deere fan, but Kubota, Ford, and Yanmar, among others, are all good tractors. An important factor to consider is availability of parts and service. On a used unit, look at general condition, including paint and sheet metal as an indicator of how well it was cared for. High hours is not necessarily a drawback if it was well maintained, with fluids and filters changed regularly. Hope this helps, and if you have specific questions, I'd be glad to give you my two cents worth. : : : : Good, sound advice. I agree, but would not put the 10 yr limitation on a used purchase. My 38 yr.old 861 Ford is used on an almost daily basis; bushogging, mowing, raking, baling hay, cleaning barns, moving manure, topsoil, occasional plowing, tilling, snow removal, etc. It has live pto, hydraulics, 5-speed trans., power-steering, remote outlets, etc. It has been extremely reliable. Around here one in very good cond. will bring $5k to $6k - very inexpensive for a "using tractor". Just be sure that you know what you're looking at or hire a good tractor mechanic to go-over it for you. Good luck. Jogg. : I agree on both the advice and wider than 10 year limit. Tractors changed dramatically around 1960 (which is why the classic/antique dividing line is at 1960). They picked up on the fact that hydraulics were the key to the future. They also started the change from gas to diesel in a big way. Utility tractors wound up with these features by 1965. You want a machine that is diesel and has it's core built around the hydraulics. It's easy to tell, since these machines use the transmission, differential and final drives as the reservoir for the hydraulic fluid. Loaders need a large sump to operate those rams. You'll also find things like dual-shifter transmissions (giving more than one reverse speed), differential locks, power steering and live PTO all standard. You really need the power steering with a loader. The live PTO is necessary when running a rotary or flail cutter. Don't get a machine without all of these goodies for a working utility tractor. I'm currently without a 'modern' machine, working with the old iron, and am sorely missing the modern guy. The oldies are fun, and still work as hard as they ever did; but the modern guys are so much nicer to work with.

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