Coming from an engineering view, you will always want your pad to have a thickened edge to frostline. We call these floating slabs. It will prevent uplift during freezing and therefore prevent heave cracking. Also, put down a 6" layer of dense grade gravel under the slab. DO NOT POUR DIRECTLY ON DIRT! Realistically, you probably only need a 12" wide thickened area around the perimeter since there are no major loads being applied here. Mesh or rebar would work in the thin part of the slab up to 5" thick. I would lay 3 bars of #6 rebar in the thickened areas 3" from the bottom and put the mesh 2" below the top of concrete pad over the entire pad. Make sure your mesh and bars stop at 2-3" from the concrete edge. If you can, instead of digging straight down around the edge, angle the dirt on the inside at a 45 degree slope. Concrete doesn't like 90 degree turns and gives a weaker spot to crack.
I have been wanting to do the geotextile/compacted gravel feed base design. It is much cheaper than the concrete. Only problem would be cleaning it off.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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