Coming from an engineering view, you will always want your pad to have a thickened edge to frostline. We call these floating slabs. It will prevent uplift during freezing and therefore prevent heave cracking. Also, put down a 6" layer of dense grade gravel under the slab. DO NOT POUR DIRECTLY ON DIRT! Realistically, you probably only need a 12" wide thickened area around the perimeter since there are no major loads being applied here. Mesh or rebar would work in the thin part of the slab up to 5" thick. I would lay 3 bars of #6 rebar in the thickened areas 3" from the bottom and put the mesh 2" below the top of concrete pad over the entire pad. Make sure your mesh and bars stop at 2-3" from the concrete edge. If you can, instead of digging straight down around the edge, angle the dirt on the inside at a 45 degree slope. Concrete doesn't like 90 degree turns and gives a weaker spot to crack.
I have been wanting to do the geotextile/compacted gravel feed base design. It is much cheaper than the concrete. Only problem would be cleaning it off.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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