NOPE doesn't make a lot of sense to me, but I'm more into Electrical then Electronics gadgets...
Being a long time avid RV user I would NOT like the engine battery to remain connected to the house batteries once the engine was stopped and the alternator no longer charging. On my time delay isolation relay system the instant the engine is stopped the relay opens. I don't like the idea of the engine battery still in use until such time its voltage drops.
My RV uses a simple timer. The house battery bank sits there isolated via a normally open relay. When the RV starts (which initially drops engine battery voltage a bit) the relay remains open UNTIL THE PASSAGE OF A TIME DELAY only after which it latches in and connects the engine battery to the house battery bank so the alternator charges all batteries while driving. It gives all the alternators output to the engine battery alone for a short time to replenish it a bit prior to the engine and house batteries all being connected together.
There is one thing worth mentioning. The house battery bank consists of True 6 Volt Deep Cycle Flooded Lead Acid batteries in series/parallel, while the engine cranking battery is a regular truck/automotive lead acid starting battery. After a period of driving the battery voltage (Engine in parallel with house) stabilizes in the 13.9 to 14.2 or so volt range. However and even if you were to drive 6 hours with all the batteries at 14+ volts. IF YOU GET TO AN RV PARK AND TURN ON THE XANTREX TRUECHARGE2 SMART CHARGER it reacts almost like the deep cycle bank is somewhat discharged???? i.e. it ramps way up to near a max charge level for a time before it settles in and then maintains the lower float voltage of around 13.1 to 13.2 volts. Its like the alternator wasn't actually pumping much charge to the house battery bank even though it was connected to the alternator for 6 hours and a voltmeter on the house bank showed it from 13.9 to 14+.
Sounds like a fairly easy time delay relay fix unless you choose to just leave it as is??
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