I worked with two welders thawing pipes 6 days a week, 8+ hours a day, for 3 1/2 months this winter in the mid-Michigan area. We did well over 300 jobs successfully with no damage. Most problems are caused by road grading after service installation (reducing the actual depth of the service), shallow installation, and no water usage for weeks at a time (people going on vacation). Even then, water lines rarely freeze as long as there is regular continuous flow (flowing water will actually thaw pipes). We had frost in excess of 72" beneath most roads during this past winter, with most services buried no deeper than 60". Still, less than 1% of services in our area froze. Also, hard winters like this come to my area only once about every 20 years. So, there is no reason to knee-jerk your way into paying extra money for something that may not help you for another two decades. My advice to you is to forget about the heat tape and insulation. Install soft copper (not rigid from the hardware store) like the local utilities use at a depth at or below the recommended depth for your area, and then don't worry about it. Then, if it gets really cold for a few weeks and you are planning on going on vacation to get away from it, just run your water while you are gone.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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