There aren't a lot of Mitsubishi D2000's around so expertise is going to be tough to find.
It sounds like the tractor already has a hydraulic system. If so it should already have a hydraulic remote control for implements. Possibly two for running a loader attachment.
The lever for the control should be marked with a crude picture of a hydraulic cylinder, unless it is worn off. Also look around on the tractor for two sockets side-by-side, or possibly two plugged tubes side-by-side.
If you have a hydraulic remote, it is as simple as connecting the cylinder's hoses to the hydraulic outlet on the tractor, and using the existing lever to control it.
Adding a valve if your tractor doesn't have one is more complicated. You can NOT "tee" into the lines, as that will cause NONE of your hydraulics to work at all. Hydraulics have to have one path from the pump back to the reservoir in order to develop pressure. Teeing into the lines makes two paths.
You might be able to install an "open center" type hydraulic valve in-line on the pressure line coming from the pump. The flow would be pump --> new valve --> rest of tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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