I see 3 options, and it depends on the weeds you have:
Stir it up lightly to incorporate the fertilizer you spread, not kill the grass no heavy tillage, just a light harrow or shallow disk. Plant new seed and harrow. This is kind of a slow path, takes a few years to get a renewed hay field this way, might fail if you get the wrong weather. You end up with old and new plants competing with each other.
Or spray it heavy, work it up, and replant all new species in mid fall or early spring.this will give you a new hay field, but so e weeds survive, as does some of the old grass.
Or rent it to a neighbor for corn or soybeans or whatever is grown there, he will get rid of the old weeds, work in fertilizer, and get rid of old gopher hills, etc. then replant your hay species the following spring. If you work with the renter you won't get top dollar, but might get your extra fert worked in in the fall get a nice seedbed, no corn herbicides that are bad for grasses, etc. this would really renew your soils.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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