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Re: Troy Bilt Horse


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Posted by Billy NY on May 27, 2014 at 05:29:05 from (66.67.105.23):

In Reply to: Re: Troy Bilt Horse posted by Sabre on May 27, 2014 at 04:14:39:

third party image

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Here is the axle seal part number from MTD, was something like $22.00 shipped, they're easy to change out, make sure to clean each axle with fine sandpaper, or whatever you prefer, especially over the roll pin hole, the book suggests then wrapping a fine paper over the axle, I find it bunches up, I think a tiny bit of gear lube would suffice, once no burrs or rust is present, it could damage the new seal when sliding it on the axle. Take non hardening, Permatex form a gasket and coat the outside of the new seal, slide it on, close to the bore, and you can use the wheel to seat it, use a rubber mallet to tap it into place and leave it projecting 1/16" or so, makes it easier to change the next time. Mine did not have the thin flat washers/shims behind the seal, its been mentioned that the snap ring can damage the seal, the washer/shim covers that. I'll know if that is a concern, as I just did mine, no leak at all so far. I am not sure if there is a part number valid for those washers/shims, from MTD, but the center hole should be just under 1.5", not sure what the bore measures in the axle housing.

When you remove the old seal, don't pry against the axle, gently pry against the cast housing. The tool I prefer for this is an old flat screwdriver, with the end slightly curved, and sharpened a bit, like a small pry bar, I have one I use for scraping, for cleaning when installing new gaskets, it will penetrate the old seal and you can gently pry it out, 2 would seem to work better, one each side.

Incidentally, I can suggest SAE 140 gear oil, GL3/GL4, by Sta-Lube, sold at Napa, its $30 something per gallon, and you'll need most of one gallon for a horse, this is what the factory provided with that tiller, and is safe for yellow metal, ie; the bronze worm gear etc. You can flush the compartment with kerosene, used a little gasoline to wash the small amount of sludge out of the bottom, my tiller only had one owner before me, the oil was not all that bad, but after all this time, over 30 years, never been outside or in the cold, no water condensation, even the book says its not that critical to change it, but I disagree, it was time, and the book states to change the engine oil more often than regular service intervals, that makes a lot of sense for a splash lube engine like these are. The books on these were comprehensive with tips and maintenance, these were built not far from where I live and a lot of good people took pride in their manufacture. I had a friend that worked on their test farm/proving grounds, soils around here are tough, rocks etc, clay, these were well built and designed to last.


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