It looks like someones previous repair failed. In extremely cold temps as you folks had this past winter, Cast Iron (porous) shrinks faster than Epoxy / JB Weld (non-porous) and will pull repairs apart.
Personally, I would Bead-Blast the entire area, block & broken piece, including edges; and then WELD it back together using "Castolin Eutectic" welding rod.
I've had great success using this particular type of welding rod - several automotive & marine blocks and heads, intake & exhaust manifolds, a LARGE broken tooth on a very large Bull Gear on a HUGE Mine Hoist, and even to sticking a thin sheet-metal plate on a 12"x36"x1"web Steel I-Beam (contact plate for a moving micro-switch) - even after a couple of "professional" welders said it couldn't be done. *** So far, I've never had one of those welds fail. *** (multiple fingers crossed - LOL) .
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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