What has worked for me is to first start the tractor out of gear and let it warm up a bit so it will start up again really easy. Then shut it off and put it in a low gear or reverse, depending on which way you have to go. Then start it up again, in gear (you might have to defeat the safety switch) and drive it around a while with the clutch pedal depressed. Be very careful, because you may not be able to stop the tractor without shutting off the engine. Usually the clutch will break free fairly soon and then I slip it a bit to try to polish the rust off the mating surfaces.
If that does not do the job, you might try putting a load on the tractor. Doing a little plowing with a moldboard plow or a box blade should break things loose. But again, be careful, since the tractor will be hard to stop until the clutch breaks loose.
If a tractor, or for that matter any vehicle is going to sit for any length of time, it is a good idea to leave it with the clutch pedal depressed all the way somehow. An old clevis works good on Ford hundred series.
If a clutch gets stuck really bad, it might be necessary to do something mechanically to get it loose, from opening up the bell housing on some machines, to a full split on some tractors. But usually they will break free by using them, at least in my experience. Good luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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