Posted by Jamo58 on June 10, 2014 at 20:36:04 from (108.39.249.123):
In Reply to: help....broken needles posted by staceyfuhrer on June 10, 2014 at 19:23:43:
Well, if you broke your needles, there is likely something else wrong that you need to make sure you fix before you cycle the needles or you could wind up right back where you are with another set of broken or bent needles.
The plunger brake should trip and shear your shear bolt at the flywheel if the needles are still in the bale chamber when the plunger is moving back into the chamber. This mechanism is there to prevent exactly what you are now having to do now, which is replace the needles in the event that they do not properly exit the bale chamber in time- a shear bolt is a lot quicker and cheaper than a set of needles. I would check the plunger break to make sure that it is clean of debris, properly greased and actionable in the event that it needs to trip.
That being said, there is also the question of why your needles were still in the chamber in the first place. Like the others have side, the timing is critical. Check the timing chain, the tucker finger chain, and the entire plunger mechanism.
Once your new needles are installed, I would cycle the needles (turn the flywheel slowly by hand and trip the knotters) slowly and watch what is going on in the chamber that may have caused the needles to bend in the first place. If you find an issue, you will have to work back from there.
The needles can get bogged down with heavy windrows or wet hay. I"ve been baling towards dusk and had the dew set in and that has shorn a few bolts for the same reason. In that event, backing the tension off (using the tensioning screws at the back of the 336) solved my issue.
I have also had an issue before with the needle brake. This is the disc above the knotters that keeps the needles in the home position after the knotter cycle is complete. This needs to be properly tensioned (the manual has the correct foot/pound requirement, I think it is around 60) to keep the needles in the home position. If this is not correct, the needles can bounce into the bale chamber in rough terrain or on a downhill grade (I learned that going uphill with a bad needle brake doesn"t shear your shear bolts but going downhill will do it almost every time because of gravity).
Regardless, as others have said, an operator"s manual is critical. The 336 is an excellent baler in my opinion. However, I"ve spent a lot of time learning about my machine the hard way through trial and error. If you can, find someone near you that has run the equipment before and they hopefully can walk you through what to look for and do.
I"d also make sure everything is clean and well greased (not over greased as all that chaff will stick to any exposed grease the second you get in the field.)
I would recommend the Baler Man for parts and reference. Here is his website: http://www.bestbalerparts.com/336_337_346_347.html I"ve ordered a lot of parts from him and have been very happy with their service and knowledge. Their business is based in Pennsylvania but I"m sure you can get shipping to Canada. They know their older John Deere balers and have been very helpful with me.
Well, sorry for the long post. I hope you guys get your baler fixed and your hay up.
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