I still use a 68. The things that made it a working machine for me, after years of frustration, were replacing the feed tines which had worn down by about a third of their length over the years and going to plastic twine. Yes, everyone says there are "sisal" knotters and "plastic" knotters. I've asked several NH dealers and workers and they all say it's hokey. The day I put the plastic in out of desperation I went from missing probably 1 in 5 bales to no missed knots. It was just poor quality sisal but it was all we could get. The old days of consistent, high quality sisal are done around me. Another thing that helped was running it faster. It had a Wisconsin on it when I got it and I was used to the speed that engine ran. When I changed over to PTO drive I aimed for the same general rpm of the baler. A friend was helping me one day and he ran the 68. He ran the PTO on the tractor at about 540 and the baler worked better than when I was "taking it easy on the old girl".
I still have work to do on it. There's a metallic "clunk" every stroke that makes the knotter assy jump a little. I have to figure out what that is, even though it's been doing it for several years. But they are a good old small capacity baler. It wants the windrow big enough to fill the throat and it wants a sharp knife and shear plate. They are slow, but they work.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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