Posted by Bret4207 on June 25, 2014 at 04:21:37 from (64.19.90.196):
In Reply to: Baler Update! posted by Bryce Frazier on June 24, 2014 at 08:03:56:
The twine knife needs to be real sharp and no, not with a file or grinder. You have to take the bolts holding the bottom of the knotters out and carefully flip them up, watch your fingers. Then when you can see the twine knife you take an abrasive stone or rod or paper on a push rod or something like that and carefully sharpen the knife till it's a sharp as you can get it.
The plunger knife you need to either crawl inside the feed chamber and take the knife out or you can try sharpening it in place with a grinder. It's really easier to take it out. When you're in there messing with it, take a look at the shear plate and that you can sharpen with your grinder or file. No one ever sharpens the shear plate but its half the "scissors" that make the cut. The knife you want to sharpen following the original angle if you can. It's a pretty steep angle and you want it that way because it has to be tough.
When you go to put the knife back in you may well need new bolts. Most places will sell you plow bolts for that, but the right bolt is a plow bolt shape that takes a heavy allen wrench. Much easier to tighten if you can get them. And you want the knife bolts TIGHT. When it is, you need to set the clearance to specs. Too much clearance gives you a very ragged cut and takes a lot more power. Spend some time loosening up the lock screws. Be careful or you'll bust them. Get some never seize on them and the lock nuts. Make sure you check for clearance at top and bottom. Sometimes the runners wear so that the knife has more or less clearance between top and bottom. You want to fix that. Swab or spray lots of old drain oil into the bale chamber so the runners get lubed, even wood needs lube.
This post was edited by Bret4207 at 04:23:16 06/25/14.
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