Roosamaster/Stanadyne pump is self-priming since it has it's own fuel transfer pump built into the back of it. It will help though if you just prime it before you install it. Very easy to do. Just take an oil squirt can and fill it with a mix of half-diesel and half motor oil. Squirt it into the the fuel inlet of the pump while you turn the driveshaft by hand in the correct direction. As long as the pump is in "run" position" it will easily prime itself and start to "click" and "turn hard" once the air is out and it's read to pop fuel through an injector nozzle. I'm sure I've installed over a 100 and always have found priming by hand before installation saves a lot of battery and starter cranking. That being said - if you just bolt it on - can crank long enough - it will start. Cracking the injector lines loose will speed things up a bit. I have no idea what putting air pressure in the fuel tank is supposed to do. The injection pump has a rotary vane fuel transfer pump built into the back and there is no direct connection between incoming fuel and the high pressure part of the pump. That vane pump makes it self bleeding and can draws fuel from 20 feet below itself if it has to.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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