Before getting into the exotic stuff like the glazing on the cylinder wall (only theorized), unseated rings (only a guess) and other overthought items, how about a bit of good old fashioned DIAGNOSIS!!!
An engine needs three things to run: 1) Compression 2) Spark - and at the right time 3) Fuel/air mixture.
Have you checked compression? Have you checked both cylinders for spark and Timing? Have you checked to see that both are getting fuel?
Just suppose that you tear down the engine, re-ring and deglaze the suspect cylinder, and put it all back together and have the SAME PROBLEM??????
Start with some basic diagnostics. I would first check for spark at both cylinders. If the spark checks ok, check timing. Many 2-cylinder engine have separate ignition for each cylinder. In that case, each cylinder is timed individually. If spark and timing are OK, examine the plugs. They should be a light tan in color. If one is dark, wet, or white and dry, it would indicate a fuel or misfire problem. A compression test would come next. A manual and following manufacturer's instructions would be helpful at this point. Engines with compression release might be a bit difficult to get a valid test on. Seems a bit extreme to proceed directly to overhaul procedures to track down a misfire.....
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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