Before getting into the exotic stuff like the glazing on the cylinder wall (only theorized), unseated rings (only a guess) and other overthought items, how about a bit of good old fashioned DIAGNOSIS!!!
An engine needs three things to run: 1) Compression 2) Spark - and at the right time 3) Fuel/air mixture.
Have you checked compression? Have you checked both cylinders for spark and Timing? Have you checked to see that both are getting fuel?
Just suppose that you tear down the engine, re-ring and deglaze the suspect cylinder, and put it all back together and have the SAME PROBLEM??????
Start with some basic diagnostics. I would first check for spark at both cylinders. If the spark checks ok, check timing. Many 2-cylinder engine have separate ignition for each cylinder. In that case, each cylinder is timed individually. If spark and timing are OK, examine the plugs. They should be a light tan in color. If one is dark, wet, or white and dry, it would indicate a fuel or misfire problem. A compression test would come next. A manual and following manufacturer's instructions would be helpful at this point. Engines with compression release might be a bit difficult to get a valid test on. Seems a bit extreme to proceed directly to overhaul procedures to track down a misfire.....
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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