Question 2: The head may not be warped. Did you thoroughly clean the surface? Wet sanding with 180 sandpaper will get a good sealing surface, do same to the block. Then recheck with a good straight edge. Those are forgiving engines, thick head gasket, heavy castings, they are designed for field repair with less than prefect conditions.
Question 3: Not sure what the specific measurement should be, the manual should tell. But again a good straight edge will tell a lot, mainly if they are all the same height. But, depending on the fit, some sleeves press tightly into the block, some sit loosely. If they are loose fit, it is possible they could have come up when the head was removed and the engine turned over. Once they come up, rust and sediment will get under them, and they will have to be removed and the bottom of the block thoroughly cleaned, and new orings installed. If all the sleeves appear to be the same height, I would assume they didn't move, but if they are of different height...
Question 4: Again, invest in a good straight edge, clean the head and check it. It's probably better than you think. A concern I would have is a possible bent valve with the screw getting in there. You can check then with diesel poured in the port, look for leakage around the valve. If all checks out, go back with another new head gasket, tap all the bolt hole threads, wire brush (do not run a thread die) the head bolts, use some sealer around the perimeter of the gasket, like Permatex if you'd like, seal the bolt heads too on the wet holes, oil the threads. Torque to spec in a circular pattern starting in the center, working out. I like to go 1/2 torque first, then full torque second pass, then keep repeating until there is no bolt movement. Then do it again when it's hot.
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