Royse, in Michigan, eh? I would be concerned about the thaw depth, which I think is 36", but I'm not certain. Here is the well that I put in a couple of years ago in one of the barns. Its a shallow, and the limit on shallows is something like 20' including the well head. I went 25', 2" and haven't had a problem with it. The tank inlet is either 1.25" or 1.5", but the jet outlet from the pump is onlt 1". In the fall before things freeze, I hit the ckt brkr, open the spiqots and let drain, blowing completely out, and then I open the cap below the check valve to allow it to lose its prime so that the water in the pipes are well, well below the thaw line. In the spring, I open the same cap, fill the suction pipe as best I can with a garden hose, cap it, then prime the pump, fill the 60 gallon tank, pressurize it to about 60 lbs to keep the water level down about 1/3rd of the way, below the pressure meter inlet. The well to the house is deepwell style in that its about 50', and the motor is at ground level, and we keep a 5 gallon pail over it to protect it from the elements, but the water suction pipes and horizontal to the house are well below thaw level, and we've never had an issue with it in ten years here in northern Indiana on the Michigan border.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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