My experience is in automotive a/c, and it's mighty limited. BUT...if the system's not leaking your refrigerant...and the compressor gets the system up to correct pressure...but it still won't cool...
Well, there's a low pressure switch that tells the compressor when to kick on, and a high pressure switch that tells it when to kick off. From that point, you're not getting your refrigerant to circulate if it's not cooling.
In the automotive side, you'll either have an expansion valve or an orifice tube. The orifice tubes generally have a screen attached...and they do get blocked. So that's where I'd start first, on a car with those symptoms. Then, if the screen and/or the orifice tube are blocked...the next question would be, what's getting in there to block the system? Is something in the system breaking down, something that might immediately block a new orifice?
Once you get there, you'll have your answer. But as I said, my experience is VERY limited. The idea that the "low" side pressure is lower than before has me leaning to the blocked orifice or expansion valve. But I might be wrong; I'm married, so being wrong is my normal position.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Generators - by Chris Pratt. As a companion to the articles on three-brush and two-brush generators, it seemed fitting that we should provide our readers with a description of how a generator works in lay terms. The difficulty with all those "theory of operation" texts is that they border on principles of electricity or physics and such. Since I know nothing of either, you will have to put up with looking at the common sense side of how generators work which means we "
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