Lou, I hear ya but keep in mind you dont have to remove any or all of the lead in a .22 barrel to keep it rust free. A dry patch to remove the fouling will do the most to stop rust. If you are still worried, pull a oiled patch through the barrel, problem solved. If you have a coating of lead in your barrel (you wont but lets just say you do), it cant rust under it, rust needs air to form. And if you oiled the barrel like I said above, its no different than if the lead isnt there. The lead doesnt change anything. Clean the action to your hearts content, doing that does not affect the accuracy of the .22. But again, develop your own religion, thats what makes .22s such a difficult sport, that and not being able to reload for them.
Keep in mind the link you just gave me is not for the .22 rimfire that everybody is talking about. .22 WRF is a whole different animal. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.22_Winchester_Rimfire You cant use that as your proof that a jacketed .22 is being made because thats different than what everybody is talking about.... just saying....
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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