Everyone pretty much answered your questions. Expansion joints allow for just that - expansion. Examples would be a garage floor against the driveway or a pole shed slab against the outside pad. As concrete heats it expands and would push against the another piece of concrete. Friend of mine had a house at the end of a street. No expansion joints between the street and driveway or driveway and garage floor. House was the walkout basement type. Eventually pushed on the back wall. $15,000 to reinforce the back wall and cut out the concrete to install expansion joints so it wouldn"t push on the house again. Yes, an expansion joint should go full depth of the concrete being poured. Concrete will crack. When it does the crack will more than likely go in a random fashion across the slab. Control joints are nothing more than creating a man-made weak area for the slab to crack at. Sometimes it won"t stop the crack, but it might eventually catch the crack to keep it from spreading entirely across the slab. An inch might be deep enough. Before saws everyone used a tool called a "jointer" to put roughly a 3/4 inch groove into the concrete. Curing the slab is extremely important. Keeping it moist will slow the curing process which actually helps slow hydration, which is the curing process of concrete. Burlap bags, lawn sprinklers, tarps, etc. can help keep it moist. The first few days is the most important, but a week or two would be beneficial. Hydration goes on for up to a year, but most of the strength is there after 30 days. Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: Fordson Major - by Anthony West. George bought his Fordson Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00 (UK). There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that this Major was produced late 1946. It was almost complete but had various parts that would definitely need replacing.
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