The 2x2 square tube along side the engine will break...look at used loaders and you"ll see where they have been welded/reinforced. Very common. Recently saw a loader on craigslist where the owner said it"s welded in the usual place.
Other major issue is the rear engine mtg bolts will break....you will see the muffler move opposite of the hood, making you think you are seeing things. The bolts are covered up by the side frames...take the frame off and you"ll see the broken bolts. They can be drilled/tapped larger, once. Then replace the engine block, or weld the bolts in place. I"ve seen it done, and dealers told me about switching good blocks to get new mtg holes.
Reason for the problem is that 3010/3020 tractors have only two rear engine mount bolts. 4010/4020 have four bolts. Entire loader hangs on the side frames of the tractor.
My solution? I added reinforced 4 inch channel, extending the frame back to the rear axle, so push energy goes to the axle, not side frames. Haven"t broken anything since.....had the loader since 1977? Did the mods in late 80s?
Changed hubs to 4020 style- they are heavier, about an inch thick entire circle, not just where bolts are. Pics are in archives here. My mod also gives a nice step to access the tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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