buickandeere, I like to error on the side of caution, so that why I spend a few pennies more on 89 octane. Correct me if I'm worng, I thought the EPA required e10 to clean up the air and make cars run cleaner. My thinking is that boosting the E rating to 17.5, or whatever it is by adding 1/2 gallon e85 to 4.5 gallons of e10, will do two things, lower the combustion temperature and increase the amount of oxygen during combustion leaning down the fuel/air mix.
I think my e17.5 is doing just that. The only way I currently have to tell things are improving is by looking at the carbon on the plugs and the carbon on top of the piston is going by-by.
I read someplace that adding oil to gas could lead to detionation, which could lead to holes in piston.
I don't like the idea of adding water to a hot engine. I once lost a 3.5 briggs engine because a large chunk of carbon broke off, got wedged between piston and cylinder and put a major grove in aluminum cylinder wall.
Besides using something to decarbon, really doesn't fix the reason why carbon is there in the first place. I'm looking for a way to lean thing down when I have no carb adjustments.
What's your thoughts? An I heading in the right direction or heading to small engine warehouse to buy a new engine? george
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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