Well here's a crazy idea: if you run straight hot water and point the shower head at the wall to get it good and hot, then turn water off and scan wall with a non-contact IR thermometer...will the tiles over the void between studs cool faster, while the sections of tile over the studs cool more slowly due the the density of material behind it? Of course this assumes adequate heat penetration through the backer board, which I'm not certain will happen. Now I'm curious, but I don't have a tiled shower to try it on.
Otherwise, I'd go up near the ceiling where there's less chance of water intrusion and drill a hole through the grout line(rather than risk cracking a tile and it's not terribly difficult to repair the hole in the grout line); one end or the other should be framed 16" OC. Assuming 3/8" backer board and 3/8" for the tile and mortar, if you come about 15" out of the corner you should find a stud. Once you find a stud, you can drill left and right of your "hit" in small increments to locate the edges of the stud, therefore being able to more accurately determine the centerline.
I agree the blocking in the wall is the best way to go, but sometimes the best way isn't always feasible. We did some work at a school up in Washtenaw County several years ago; as I recall, they only required 2 x 6 blocking. Dean, is the 2 x 12 code required in your area or your personal/professional preference?
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