If the only appliances on the circuit are the fridge and microwave, and the breaker doesn't trip when using the microwave, the problem just about has to be either the fridge or the breaker.
Easiest place to start would be replace the breaker. Also look at the buss bar in the breaker panel where the breaker attaches, be sure the connection is good.
If the problem continues, you'll need to check the fridge. Check for the obvious first, clogged coils, condenser and evaporator fans free and working, pinched, rubbed, chewed wiring.
You'll need an amprobe to test the run and defrost circuits. Find the info tag and note the amp draw specification. With the compressor running, be sure the amperage is not exceeding the rated amps. If so there is a problem with the compressor or a fan or some component that runs when the system calls for cooling.
If that tests good, find the defrost timer. It's usually under the front cover at the bottom, or in back. With the amprobe in place, slowly rotate the timer overide until the defrost cycle starts. Watch the amp reading, see if it exceeds the tag ratings or exceeds the 20 amp breaker rating. If so there is a problem in the defrost, probably a shorted heating element.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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