Posted by Steve@Advance on September 20, 2014 at 20:32:28 from (107.203.134.67):
In Reply to: TO-20 posted by spudm on September 20, 2014 at 19:18:46:
Before going in after the rear main leak... First be sure it is engine oil, could be transmission oil. Either would drain out the same place. Transmission seal is much easier to replace, but still requires splitting the tractor.
Back to the engine seal, a couple of things to check.
Be sure the oil is not overfull.
Be sure the oil isn't coming from above and draining down from the valve cover or the oil pressure gauge line.
Check the crankcase vent, be sure it isn't clogged.
How is the rest of the engine's health? Good oil pressure? Blowby? Deep engine knocks, especially on cold start up or heavy load?
A badly leaking rear seal can sometimes be a symptom of a more serious problem. If there are other problems, the seal will fail again. Might run it awhile, see how things look. If no other problem arise might want to try a rear seal. It's a rope seal, it may have been improperly done previously, especially if the engine has recently been gone through.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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