Im sure there will be a ton of good responses (as for legal or electrical questions) so I may as well get my two cents worth in early and see how many agree or disagree?? No Warranty, Im not saying Im right or wrong mind you, wire it however you please......... YES Billy Bob, his method will still "work"
John, If you put the Transfer Switch in the shed, just what is it you intend to "transfer"???
It sounds like you want to backfeed the main panel via the circuit breaker that feeds the shed and you want to switch the feeder from either supplying the shed as normal to instead being powered via the Generator. THATS NOT THE NORMAL TRANSFER SWITCH FUNCTION and it defeats the switches safety feature because its to prevent backfeeding the utility if your loads are being fed by the Genny. If you connect the genny that way and the main breaker isn't opened you can backfeed the utility IM SURE YOU KNOW THAT AND INTEND TO FLIP THE MAIN BUT THATS JUST NOT HOW AND WHY A TRANSFER SWITCH IS INTENDED TO OPERATE.
How a transfer switch is intended is to transfer whats feeding your house from EITHER the Utility OR the Genny and in so doing the other source is isolated to prevent any possibility of a potentially hazardous backfeed.
There would be two INPUTS to the Transfer Switch, The UTILITY ORRRRRRRRRRRR THE GENNY and one Output, your main panel. What youre transferring is the source to your house from the genny orrrrrrrrrr the utility and the two can never meet...........
There are relatively inexpensive transfer methods, one of which is merely a panel mounted locking slide out in which case the backfeed breaker cant be on at the same time the main breaker is. If the main is on the backfeed breaker must be off and vice versa. Or you can buy a full fledged transfer switch.
NOTE if you want to use only a 2 pole transfer switch to switch 120/240 volt single phase three wire (probably what you would do):
a) If the genny has the Neutral bonded to the case/frame YOU NEED TO SEVER THAT BOND.
b) You must carry FOUR wires from (assuming its a 120/240) genny to transfer switch, 2 Ungrounded (Hot) Conductors,,,,,,,,,,,,1 Grounded (Neutral) Conductor,,,,,,,,,,1 Equipment Grounding Conductor.
c) The Genny Neutral and the Utility Neutral ARE BONDED TOGETHER (may do so at switch)
d) Carry the equipment Grounding conductor out from the main to the case/frame of the genny
e) The genny is NOT a separately derived source configured as above and does NOT require connection to a grounding electrode (ground rod for Billy Bob) however its case/frame needs bonded to the equipment grounding conductor.
I think this is correct but Ive been retired from active EE desing a long time so no warranty, see if some of the fine still practicing electrical gents like drsporster or Dusty or several others agreer or not.
HOWEVER ITS NOTTTTTTTTTTT WHAT ANY OF US SAY THAT MATTERS, CONSULT WITH LOCAL AUTHORITY AND YOUR UTILITY PROVIDER AND DO AS THEY SAY..
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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