Re: JD Seller Trailer Isolation Relay

Posted by JD Seller on October 06, 2014 at 21:16:49 from (208.126.198.123):

In Reply to: JD Seller Trailer Isolation Relay posted by Part Time Pete on October 06, 2014 at 08:41:27:

Thanks for the ideas fellows. Here is how the current batteries are installed and how the dove tail/winch work.

1) I have the single factory battery at the hydraulic supply for the dove tail. The dove tail is powered up and down. This battery has a several ways to charge it. A)There is a maintainer/charger mounted right there. It can be ran off of 12v or 110volt power supply. B)It also has a solar panel on the top of the gooseneck that helps to keep it charged. C)Then you have the charge wire from the pickup.

2) The winch is mounted on a cross member between the gooseneck hitch up rights. I have two deep cycle marine batteries, 1100 CCA Each, in a box right above the winch. The cables only are about four foot long. These batteries are only charged by the truck charge wire. The winch really sings with these two batteries running it. It is a Warn 12,000 LBS winch.

The winch batteries and the dove tail lift battery are not wired together for shared power transfer. The truck charge wire is the only common link between the two.

I was thinking hard about how to wire an isolation relay. I would need to use diodes to keep the functions from cross feeding each other. It seems to get quite complicated wiring wise real quick. LOL

Bob and jm. I did not see your reply about just installing a smaller circuit breaker on the trailer side of the charge wire. This sounds like the simplest way. I would just have to check all of the trucks and see what AMP breaker would be smaller. I think 25 amp would work as it seems that the trucks all have 30 amp fuses.

One of the reasons I want to get something done is that unplugging the trailer light wire has cost me two plugs. If you are rushed when loading it is real easy to forget to plug the light wire back in. So you take off dragging it on the ground. Plus you don't have brakes when you may need them too.

I don't want it to get real complicated wiring it. That just makes too many things that can fail and then you are back to square one.

I also do not want to do major rewiring on the trailer. One of the big reasons for this is I more than likely will trade this trailer every few years. I usually keep them in pretty good shape. So about the time the tires and brakes need replaced I usually just trade for a new one. Doing that has made it cost me less than a $1000 a year to own the pervious trailers. I also usually need the depreciation for tax purposes.

THANK YOU all for the ideas.

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