You ought to pull some parts out and inspect before ordering parts. If the engine has a spun or galled main bearing and it just happened - you might be able to repair without pulling engine and crankshaft out. I've fixed several over the years that seized a main- bearing from coolant in the oil. Often happens to an engine that's been in storage and then started. Seals on the sleeves leak a bit and water gets in the oil-pan. After sitting and then starting - oil pump picks up the water and sends it to a main bearing - and then the main bearing acts like a brake-band. If caught before run too much - it's possible there is little to no crank damage. Just have to clean off any soft-metal transferred from the bearing shell to the crank journal. Sometimes after cleaning the crank-journal with crocus-cloth - you might want to install a slightly undersize main bearing. Deere used to sell .002" under mains just for this purpose. Might still find them aftermarket since Deere no longer carries them. AT21130 and AT21108. Keep in mind that early 300s had only one seal per sleeve when new and were prone to leaks. When rebuilt and upgrade kit was used with three-seals per sleeve.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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