If you take it in to have it flushed, just make sure they are changing the filter. Flush machines just tee into a cooler line and flow new fluid in and old fluid out until there is a full exchange.
The flush is a quick process, it's dropping the pan and changing the filter that takes longer. Some places just run the vehicle in, hook up, flush it and send it back out.
Kinda like taking a shower and putting dirty underwear back on...
If you like to do stuff yourself, you can drop the pan and filter, let it drain out good, replace the filter and fill it up. I'm sure you can get more of an exchange by pulling a cooler line and doing like suggested.
By doing just the pan and the filter, you can get 1/2 to 2/3 the oil changed. I would do that and then maybe in 10k do it again. Then go out to 30-40-50k, whatever floats your boat.
If you buy a filter kit that comes with one of those crappy gaskets, can it. Yours should have a reusable bonded rubber gasket. Clean it up and reuse it. BW
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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