from the above testing....the rotor must not be lined up with a cap terminal when the coil 'fires'
first, static time it so you are sure the rotor is pointing at a cap terminal when it is supposed to.
(distributors get turned..and even clamped down, the actual clamp can slip sometimes)
double check that power pass thru on the side of the distributor. An intermittent short there will drive ya crazy.
During testing all will be well sometimes. other times...nothing.
and as said, on Fords, make sure you are getting the right parts. Distributor dust cover/caps changed year to year.
some dust covers are just dust covers, others are cap spacers and aligners.
forget a spacer where one is needed=broken stuff.
put a spacer where one doesn't belong and the rotor tip to cap terminal might be too far apart.....
and like the other poster...if it ran before...I'd static time it, put the original stuff back on...and see. If it runs then, a very careful comparison of the new stuff will find the culprit/difference.
I know you are dealing with new stuff and you would catch it, but moisture in the cap will do that too.
And do some testing in dim light.
If that high energy pulse can find an easier way to ground than where it is supposed to go......it will...
sometimes amazingly so. had one coil..arc came from under wire boot, traveled across the top of the coil and went to one of the coil stud terminals. Watching it as the tractor was still running raggedly....thought..That's impossible..too far..but, there it was LOL
ps as you are sorting it out..
I know you have a spark tester in your toolbox.
hook it up at an installed plug, so you know when you have it fixed and it is sparking in the only place that really matters...
testing, hand cranking, starter turning.....when I see the lightning at the tester, plug in under pressure...I know I can cross ignition off the list
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