Re: 9N ignition head scratcher

Posted by jimg.allentown on December 16, 2014 at 08:39:21 from (98.115.105.174):

In Reply to: Re: 9N ignition head scratcher posted by Wagonmaster on December 16, 2014 at 08:16:54:

As I have "preached" in the past, diagnosis is the key to successful (and economical) repairs. Without doing some testing and verification, you may as well go down to the bank and get a satchel full of $100 bills to throw at it.
THE MOST EXPENSIVE WAY to fix a problem is to keep throwing money and parts at it until it is solved.
THE MOST INEFFICIENT WAY to fix a problem is the "shotgun" approach. Keep throwing parts at it until it is fixed.

Just suppose....you go and spend the hundred for the electronic ignition, and it DOES NOT FIX THE PROBLEM?????

Go back to the basics. Check for spark, compression, and fuel/air mix. Determine FOR CERTAIN which of the three is causing the no start. IF you have determined FOR CERTAIN that the problem is the ignition system, then TROUBLESHOOT THE SYSTEM!!!!

There are more systems involved in operating the ignition than just the coil, points, etc. The engine has to be turning the distributor, and has to be IN TIME for the system to function. The spark takes the following route...
1) Coil PRIMARY is saturated by the battery voltage.
2) This produces a spark in the coil SECONDARY.
3) This spark goes by wire to the center conductor of the distributor cap.
4) This spark is then conducted to one of the cylinder towers on the distributor cap by the ROTOR. The rotor could be shorting to ground inside the distributor. The rotor may also NOT BE TURNING. Bad distributor drive gear? Sheared locating tab inside the rotor not keeping it secure on the shaft? Not lining up with the correct cylinder tower on the cap?
5) The spark then travels to the spark plug in the designated cylinder, fires the plug, and you have (theoretically) combustion.

If ANY of these things are NOT IN ORDER, then putting on an electronic ignition will not only NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM, but will add just another layer of complication to the problem.

As a long experienced mechanic of over 45 years, I could most likely have it running (or KNOW the reason why not) within a couple of hours if I were there. HOWEVER, since I must depend on YOU to be my eyes and ears, if you give me inaccurate information, I can only give you an inaccurate diagnosis.

I recommend:
1) Fully diagnose the system. If it will not run with the existing system, it will also not run with a replacement electronic system.
2) Pinpoint the inoperative or failed component.
3) Report back what you find.

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