I like Gordo's setup but I had to use the Char Lynn pump that was on it - it mounts to the side of the governor housing like yours probably does. I just looked at mine. There is an L shaped bracket bolted to the front left head bolt. It points up and is about two-three inches long on each side of the 90 corner. The corner of the L is about two inches away from the head. The reservoir is up against that piece and a band goes around the reservoir to snug it to it. It is just a length of metal strap bent at both ends with a bolt to draw it tight. Imagine the strap that holds the oil bath reservoir at the bottom. This is the same except it is flat stock not concave to hold the lip of the oil bath canister. You could honestly do the same thing with some angle iron and plumber's straping/duct strap. I've never had to add fluid to mine. I take the hood off when I service it once a year to check things out and just check it then. I cringe when I see a hood with an access hole cut, but I get why people do it. If the system leaked it would make me crazy to take that hood off frequently. Cutting a hole is just a bandaid, not a fix for the leak.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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