I don't know what specifically your issue is. That being said, I've had many GFCIs go bad. I'm in a house that was built new 15 years ago. I had to replace four GFCI outlets just this year that were tripping all on their own. Also had a GFCI breaker in the main-panel-box go bad. That was a Square D type Q0. A new one would cost $40. I eliminated it. I don't use GFCIs on anything that are plugged in to something important and need the power to be on. Like a battery maintainer, engine block heater, refrigerator, freezer, and/or animal water-heater. Note that a GFCI can trip on a circuit that is OK but has too long a run or capacitance.
I'm not trying to put ideas in your head. For me - NO GFCIs on anything that I rely on to be powered and it's not where I can see it. If you are a code-compliance worrier - NEC exempts most outdoor outlets If dedicated to one appliance. If you have a tractor that needs a block heater plugged in most of the winter, you can likely install a single receptacle and have it dedicated to the block heater and not be required to have a GFCI involved. But don't take my word for it. Read the NEC that has jurisdiction in your area (if you live in a code area). For myself, I don't care what some blow-hard says is "best" at the code-factory. I'll consider their suggestions and then use what suits my situation the best. I WOULD want to determine though that the block-heater is not defective in some way.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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