jocco, A neighbor and I both have 20 ft Gooseneck Flat beds that we are putting new Floors in. The choice of wood is your biz. But think pressure treated will work fine. The cross-members are already recessed to accept a 1.5 in board thickness. The problem is all the Screws the Bed Company (OM) used to fasten the wood to the bed! Like on my Trailer they are a V-head and counter sunk into the wood. the real problem is that the treads will be rusted to the cross-members little to no chance to get them out cleanly! Get the wood out as best as possible, Grind off the screws. Cut the new wood and fit it as tight as possible. Here is where I would differ from the O.M. Put new wood in place, get 2 or 3, Of 2 or 3 in wide strap metal and tack in one at the front and rear of bed to hold the wood in place and one a t the 1/2 way point to prevent bounce! If wood ever needs to be replaced, a clean cut of the welds with a 4 in cut-off wheel and you are good to go, replace all wood put the strap back in place and reweld ! Done This is how My Neighbor and I will refasten the new wood to our trailers! To do metal you will need to cut and fit new Cross-members to support the steel deck and you may need to add additional cross-members in the splits to stiffen the floor up depending on the width of the original splits! then weld in permanent! Hope this helps Later, John A.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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