I buy at least one running gear every year for my parade wagon building hobby. So I'm a buyer, not a seller. I pay around $400 for a gear and I don't care about the tires. I always take off the old ones and put new tires on. I look for straightness - although I have replaced one bent reach, no parts missing, solid steel with no rust holes although surface rust is o.k., no dents, matching wheels and hub caps, and always tapered roller bearings in the hubs. I don't buy gears with cage bearings or older gears with wheel bushings. I did overpay this year for a Gehl G500A gear at $500 but I was needing a gear right now and it was available and in very good condition. I have bought John Deere 963; John Deere 953; John Deere 952; New Idea 629; J&M 8-ton; 3 spoke-wheel gears of unknown origin; and a good looking gear at an auction with no known pedigree. $400 is a price that will get my attention. I look at many gears every year, especially on craigslist, and find that gears advertised at less than $300 are not gears that I can use.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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