We dont have much OM this far south. We stay warm enough to decompose things quickly. Most soils here are in that 3% range. Some better bottom ground might get up to the 5 range on OM.
I'm like you in realizing that strip-till sounds good but isnt feasible on hobby acreage. Not only is the rig expensive but so is the tractor that has enough ponies to pull it. Applying my nutrients in narrow bands at 5" deep is about the only way I could imagine to somewhat mock that strip=till practice of getting the nutrients down where they belong in the root zone.
Zone building for soil structure reasons isn't a huge concern here. No-till really works well this far south. We have plenty of soil warmth in the spring to get emergence. Really I prefer a stale seedbed or total no-till here in case of a rain. Worked soil is actually somewhat of a risk here. Because of our low OM crusting is an issue. No-till really saves us from that.
If you have any pointers on my plans please feel free to share. This is a new practice for me so I'll take whatever thought you might have.
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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