See this is the problem. On the Detroit it had 300,000+ miles on it and it was a 1975 model truck. The valve guides were wore and so were the rings so oil got by them because it thinned down when it warmed up and that is what caused it to run away.
Now the tractor part.
I have an Oliver 1550 diesel with 3200 hours and a Long 900 with 1200 hours and a Case 930 with 5000 hours but was rebuilt @4800 hours. And my 96 F350 7.3 with 124,000 miles on it. All of these are good running and no oil useage engines that are very far from being wore out. But all of them will not hold oil pressure when they warm up with 30 or 40W Rotella, BTDT and it costs to much to try again, And the truck got 15/40 Rotella and it will NOT run right with it in it. 3 1/2 gal of oil plus $10 filter =$65 oil change to do over, No thank you. I will stick to what works for me.
The biggest problem is this ALL the oil you buy today is made for new engines coming off the line witch are totally different than what I need for my older engines. Different engines specks different oils simple as that. And again I have tried Rotella and it just don't work for me. Bandit
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Today's Featured Article - Good As New - by Bill Goodwin. In the summer of 1995, my father, Russ Goodwin, and I acquired the 1945 Farmall B that my grandfather used as an overseer on a farm in Waynesboro, Georgia. After my grandfather’s death in 1955, J.P. Rollins, son of the landowner, used the tractor. In the winter 1985, while in his possession the engine block cracked and was unrepairable. He had told my father
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