IMHO "Big" , I would do the steam clean thing first no matter what level you go with with paint/body. It may even help you decide what level you want. Once you get it as clean as you can with steam, let it dry and buy a gallon of enamel reducer (cheapest you can find) and use a spray bottle and really wet down all but the sheet metal. While still wet , steam clean it again. At this point the cast and all but sheet metal will take paint and stick without sanding. It's best to use a two component epoxy primer first for adhesion insurance. Sheet metal is a whole nuther story. Here's where your chosen priorities will call the shots. It will also either make or break the finished job. If I were you , I would take the sheet metal to a local (reputable) body shop and have them walk you through from start to finish, the steps to do it right,and write them down. I did body/paint on autos for over 35 yrs and you can't get it out of a book. Type of paint is only important for longevity. Quality and patience in the prep is what will make or break the whole job. Practice your painting on the cast and small parts first. Good luck and post pics when done.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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