Not to be mean, but lots of totally free in cost troubleshooting checks should have been done while the engine ran prior to pulling the head.
Most of the important checks are easy and free in cost to do.
Firing order
Timing set properly. (Do it statically to get it close then optimize with a timing light for perfection.)
compression check (both wet and dry).
bent pushrod?
valve lash adjustment.
vaccum leaks (Your new gasket means nothing if the manifold is so warped that it will not seal. I had to mill the manifold on my Farmall M to get it flat so it would seal. Good thought by Steve at advance to check for internal crack between the intake and exhaust side while its off too although I have never seen that).
I personally Would not even wasted money on all the ignition parts that you bought until I did some troubleshooting. I might buy 1 new plug to troubleshoot with. File and set points if not all burnt up. Make sure to clean the points with brown paper bag - oil residue on contacts can cause fits. Replace the condenser if I suspected goofiness with it. I keep all my old ignition parts that I know are good to simply troubleshoot with if nothing else. Easy for me to throw in an old condenser I know is good.
Crosshatch on the cylinders mean nothing other than it is not full of rust and pits. The rings could still be toast. Alternatively the valves could not be sealing well. Had you performed the compression check prior to pulling head then you would know if the compression was low and if the source of the low compression was rings or valves. Now you have to assemble everything to troubleshoot it like you should have done to begin with. Alternatively you could pull it down entirely measure parts for spec but that can get expensive.
Since you have the head off anyway, I would likely have a valve job performed and add umbrella seals to the stems before I re-installed it at a minimum.
This post was edited by rankrank1 at 12:00:46 03/14/15 2 times.
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