huh, why in the world would you pull a head without a compression check???, standard procedure on any engine. sure you can change all that stuff but without the points and timing set correctly and firing order correct you can have a HORRIBLE miss, as the spec's must be followed and you did not conferm that this is done. you did not even say if it ran like this before the parts replacement. we have very little info here. not even the compression #'s for each cyl. and also on a complete tune up valve adjustment should be done. as the valve seats wear the clearance between rocker and valve stem is decreased causing the valve not to close fully and then result in a burnt valve. with dist in correct position # 1 cyl. is at two oclock position then 3 4 2 to follow. clockwise. when properly timed the little point screw with the wire going to the coil on the side will be sitting right at 3 oclock position. that's correct dist location right from factory.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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