Don't let a few guys ruin you getting help or ideas. There is a lot of knowledge on YT.
Fellow YT posters. LET IT BE!!!!! Your kicking a fellow that CAME HERE FOR HELP!!!! NOT EVERYONE IS AN EXPERT ON OLD tractors/MOTORS!!!. This fellow was trying to get help and learn.
Well he learned alright!!! What he learned is to NEVER asked a question on this site again!!!
Brian: As for your trouble with your IH "H". Here is a summery of many of the fellows ideas and how I would go.
1) If the tractor manifold is still off the tractor then check an see if there is a leak between the intake and exhaust.
2) If you have it back in running condition then I would start the engine and remove one plug wire at a time. (use well insulated pliers to do this with) You looking for one that does not change how the tractor is running. Meaning it is missing. IF they all effect the running then pick the one that effects it the least.
3) If you have found one cylinder that seems weaker than the others then I would switch that wire with one from another cylinder. That way you will know if the wire is the issue if the problem moves. Do the same with the spark plug.
4) The problem does not move then it is something with just that cylinder. Which could very well be a broken piston ring. I have broken them when installing them new so age is not the only factor. YES a compression check MAY show a stuck ring that causes low compression. A compression check may not show an issue when it actually is a ring/compression problem.
5) IF you have access to an inferred thermometer You can easily look for a cylinder misfire. Just let the tractor set until the manifold is at outside temperature. Start the tractor and check each cylinder on the exhaust manifold. If one is missing it will show colder than the others. You need to do this right at startup. The entire manifold will even out in temperature after it runs a short while.
6) Take the distributor cap, rotor button and cover plate off. Check and see if the bushing in the top of the distributor shaft is bad allowing the shaft to move sideways. This will make the points cap change. This effect the timing and quality of the spark.
7) If no issue there then I would return to the carburetor. I have rebuilt them and they did not work right either. If the carburetor was really gummed up it is real easy to not get all the internal ports cleaned up all the way.
That is about all of the ideas I have and copies of many of the other posters suggestions.
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