I agree! Lot of "pros" around here use the old oil out of log trucks, but then again they burn through saws and bars MUCH more quickly than me!!!
As far as I am concerned, there is a reason they make stuff called BAR OIL. It works good for oiling bars!!
I run Husqvarna "XP Bar Oil", which is supposed to be pro, but I really don't think that there is a difference! It is THICK stuff! MUCH stickier than motor oil, especially used...
Something else to keep in mind, my dad runs brand new motor oil on his bar, and loves it, BUT, he runs a Husqvarna 350 with a 24 inch bar. I run a 288XP with a 28 inch, and a bigger sprocket, and it will just throw the oil off the end of the bar, and nothing on the bottom, or the sprocket ever gets oiled! That is REALLY bad...
Like said, I run that Husky stuff (though I am sure any real "bar" oil is fine), and IF it is a little too thick in the winter, I put a cup of diesel/kerosene to the gallon of oil, just make sure you mix with a stick before use, and USE it in the saw, don't let it sit, because it will separate....
Don't be cheap with your saw! Run good stuff in it and it will last you a LONG time! :) Bryce
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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