Glen, you are right about the special technique to safety wire bolts.
Looking at the pictures, that is a case book example how NOT to do it! LOL And, that may even be a factory safety wire, don't know, never been into one that I knew for sure was factory.
Found this: http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/191176-1.html Here's part of what it said: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Safety wire must be new upon each application. (This seems fairly obvious until you catch yourself trying to redo a short run using the same wire.)
All safety wires "must be tight after installation, but not under such tension that normal handling or vibration will break the wire."
Twists should be "tight and even, and the wire between nuts as taut as possible without over-twisting." (Six to eight turns per inch.)
A "pigtail" of 1/4- to 1/2-inch (three to six twists) should be made at the end of the wire run. This pigtail "must be bent back or under to prevent it from becoming a snag."
When castle nuts are safetied, "tighten the nut to the low side of the selected torque range, unless otherwise specified, and if necessary, continue tightening until a slot aligns with the hole."
The wire must be applied "so that all pull exerted by the wire tends to tighten the nut."
The wire should always "be installed and twisted so that the loop around the (bolt) head stays down and does not tend to come up causing a slack loop."
Note line 2, the wire should be tight, but not too tight. Note line 6, the wire must be applied to tend to tighten the fastener.
If the wire can't be too tight, then the odds of it preventing the fastener from loosing it's torque value are slim.
So, wouldn't the real purpose be more to contain the bolt or nut, keep it from coming all the way off, or falling out if it broke, and causing further damage?
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