Read your earlier post, I don't think you'll have to wait on them to cool completely as they should not be heated to more than a real dull orange for the most part. Take your time with each step when trying to work them out. The heat and some impact if you can without causing any damage if the old ones are to be salvaged, ought to eventually work. Welding a nut on the protruding shank or flush if broke off, (you will have to shield the block with something like copper or washer so it does not fuse to the cast) is better than drilling and or using an easy out or extractor.
If you have to use anything like that, use lots of care, take your time and do not put excess force on it, meaning don't break it off in there, lot harder to drill those out. I don't particularly like these, but have used them successfully many times, they are risky. If broke flush, but the face of the break is jagged, its not easy to strike a center punch in the center to align the drill bit into the middle, in my opinion you need to center punch and dimple it in the center to align the bit so it only drills the shank of the bolt. Start with smaller size bits and work up to larger ones. There is also the method of using a reverse drill bit, or drilling until its thin, use the cutting torch to help free up the thin remains and not damage the threads. Some of this is better for experienced hands. I'd stay with the heat and maybe welding a nut, get a good bite, work both directions, but not in excess, if it is week, its likely to break, but most times its when too much force is applied, vs taking your time, heat, penetrant or something to wick in, though I think heat does most of it as often times I see no sign of any penetrating oil wicking in. I have wicked in anti- or nevr seize on coarse threads when hot.
This post was edited by Billy NY at 12:53:39 05/30/15.
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