I like to double nut them after heating around the stud, then rap on the end of the stud with a hammer a few times. Quite often that will help even with no heat, just have to hit it square on the end. If you do all this and don't get one out, and accidentally DO snap one off in there, just use oxy acetylene torch to blow remainder of stud out of the hole. The stud will always melt/ cut out of the hole before you melt the cast iron. Also is much easier if you drill a hole 1/4" or so through the stud before you use the torch, it takes less time to pierce it out of there. With a good dark shield, you can look right in the hole and see the threads appear as the stud melts away. Usually have to stop and chip slag out of the hole a couple times before you are done. Run a tap through down the hole, insert new stud with anti-sieze, done. Most people are afraid to try it, but it works very well. I used to do this all the time removing broken lower roller bolts on dozers and excavators. Some through holes, some blind holes, most in steel track frames. Had 17 broken bolts on one side of an excavator that had been broken forever that I had to take out one time. Good luck
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: Fordson Major - by Anthony West. George bought his Fordson Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00 (UK). There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that this Major was produced late 1946. It was almost complete but had various parts that would definitely need replacing.
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