The little propane/butane/MAPP torches simply do not put out the BTUs to really heat up a block, head, or even the stud. In the past, I have used oxy-acetylene with a cutting tip (not to cut, but for the BTU output) and heated the area around a stud. A few taps on the end with a small hammer also helps. Best to avoid breaking it if at all possible. Be gentle and do not apply enough force to break it off. Another thing that can help if a stud is broken off near the casting is to use a reverse sharpened drill. I have had broken bolts spin right out almost as soon as I started drilling.
BTW, it is unlikely that you would ever heat it up enough to warp a valve seat or exhaust port.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: Fordson Major - by Anthony West. George bought his Fordson Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00 (UK). There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that this Major was produced late 1946. It was almost complete but had various parts that would definitely need replacing.
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