I think you're look you're looking at it backwards. What is it you need to accomplish? Then you can decide the most cost effective way to do it.
Your building site has three requirements: Good drainage, good approaches to the entrances and a reasonably level, compacted base on which to pour the floor. You have to solve the first two problems first! If you have a very large lot to work with, it's not that difficult to cut from one area and fill to another. But if you have a small lot or need to build close to a property line, you may have no choice but to bring in fill to get the site you need.
Getting the fill compacted can be a problem if your fill dirt is clay or has a lot of debris in it (e.g. topsoil). But you should be OK if the fill dirt is clean and sandy. If you have a reasonably heavy tractor, it will compact reasonably well when you grade it out. For a really solid base, consider bringing in some crushed limestone and packing it down.
If you're going to add several feet of fill, you need to be concerned about what your posts are sitting on. Ideally, the concrete plugs at the bottom of the post holes should be sitting on undisturbed soil. As long as you don't fill more than four feet that shouldn't be a problem. If you fill more than that, you need to be sure the fill is well-compacted at its base.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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